This essay reflects on the work that Detours, a decolonial educational tours project, carries out in the militarized zone of Pu‘uloa / Pearl Harbor on the island of O‘ahu. The essay contrasts the itinerary and narratives that Detours offers with the experience that most tourists are invited to have at the USS Arizona Memorial / Pearl Harbor complex. Foregrounding instead Native Hawaiian history and claims to the space, the experience and purpose of Detours collides with the unabashed patriotism that structures the memorial's investment in World War II commemoration.

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