... the From the Editor ways in which Florida teenager Trayvon Martin’s choice to wear a hoodie, given some people’s under- BLACK FASHION standing of the relationship between that particular ART...

..., but who simultaneously has French roots. He was classified as an individual whose self-importance, impeccable dress, and manners attract attention and afford status. A black dandy can be defined as a self-fashioned gentleman who intentionally appropriates classical European fashion with an African...

..., Badu imports a wildness and revelation for people and their embodied histories; exoticism into “Q.U.E.E.N as well as a claim for when worn—and worked—it becomes “another black/feminist authority, as she combines her Afro way” by which to fashion the self and progressive and Cleopatra looks...

... particularly important as black South Africans fought for basic human rights. Drum magazine—South Africa’s leading fashion black lifestyle magazine—chronicled the burgeoning Black Consciousness movement along side its coverage of black fashion models and fashion designers. Fashion was political. One’s attire...

... with Earrings (1966), shot for twen magazine. March’s subject—the African American fashion model and actress Donyale Luna (1945–79)—is of great historical significance, not only because Luna was the first internationally acclaimed black fashion model, but also because she had an especially arresting, black...

...Deborah Riley Draper Not many moments in time change the course of history and evolution of an industry at the same time. And even fewer of these moments can be attributed without exception to a group of black fashion models. In this essay I discuss my award-winning documentary Versailles ’73...

... and creole chat of the best-dressed chicken on the street. Saga bwoys and rude bwoys are constituents of the contemporary ragamuffin geneology of subcultural black masculine practices that have been self-fashioned in the rhizoid network of racial, transcultural, and diaspora exchange and transfer. Yet...

.... Through the Ebony Fashion Fair, Johnson Publishing Company brought exclusive design into very public spaces and featured it on black bodies. The traveling show reiterated the publishing company’s project of featuring the best in black life, and it used fashion, beauty, and glamour to accomplish that end...

... of Contemporary African Art 2015 Anthony Barboza photography fashion Essence magazine the seventies ANTHONY BARBOZA IN CONVERSATION WITH BILL GASKINS Anthony Barboza, one of the first black professional “I still work. I love to work, and I...

... perspectives on the production and skill of black self-representation, desire, and the exchange of the gaze from the nineteenth century to the present day in fashion, film, art, and the archive. Drawing on the ideas and works of leading and emerging writers of our time while including the discussions...

...Anna Arabindan-Kesson This article explores the uses of portraiture by artists Barkley L. Hendricks and Elizabeth Colomba. First, it examines the ways both artists refigure canonical forms of the genre differently to evoke an understanding of black interiority through the stylization, fashioning...

... of cosmopolitan societies and selves; and the changing representation of blackness, desire, and beauty across time and space. His archive thus not only constitutes a rare document of the black experience in postwar Britain during the Swinging Sixties, but also provides an important frame of reference, overlapping...

... echoes voguers’ transgression of high fashion in dance competitions. Newsome stages a transnational and transhistorical dialogue between two distinct but interconnected systems of oppression, imperialism and global capitalism, thus sketching a collective history of Black pain and of creative resilience...

... relations between Peary and Henson, thetic provides a very different approach, challeng- though in unexpected ways. This comes through ing some foundational assumptions of the sublime in Julien’s focus on a black female fashion model, as overwhelming and humbling, since he offers us Vanessa...

..., and the history of black dandyism more generally, I have coined the phrase crime of fashion to capture the dynamic in which these men were embroiled and of which...

... from to the powers of blackness. Like many other aspects performance. of these photos produced under the sign of fash- In 1824 the Italian poet Giacomo Leopardi ion, an industry in which Barboza has worked for brought fashion and death into dialogue, revealing most of his life, the horn...

..., the latter a show of y Lucientes. dual commitment. Similarly single men wear lace Donkor became familiar with Goya's court as a demonstration of fashionable availability, portraits during visits to New York. Many of usually in black, blue, or white hues. Lace is a Goya's...

... erupted the woman made world-famous by her use of her onto the world stage; it is also a critical trope for own shimmering, black skin. The very same year philosophers and writers, from Woolf (“frock con- that Woolf wrote in her diary her desire to explore sciousness”; life as “a semi-transparent...

... unrelated pieces and installations, refusing both yet operating between them through temporary and meaningful collusions. While they function as discrete proposals, combined, the works open up a performative space of inquiry into the mythic constructs of modernist painting and the black body. Most...

... and contradictory medium of photography. To break the codes of this image 42 • Nka Journal of Contemporary African Art • 37 • November 2015 FASHION STUDIES from Duke University Press SLAVES TO FASHION Black Dandyism and the Styling of Black...