...Maria Giuseppina Muzzarelli The ample record of medieval and early modern sumptuary laws represents an extensive historical period and a broad geographical area. Though scholars have not completely ignored these laws, they deserve far more attention and should be explored from many critical...

..., Asia, Africa, and the New World—was challenged by a range of cultural transformations: changes in the style of clothing, the categories of people who wore particular fashions, the disappearance of fashions over time and through political changes, and the infringement of sumptuary laws. Vecellio...

... to group identities. This stability, however, was chal- lenged by political changes, the appropriation of elite styles by larger groups in spite of sumptuary laws, the transformation of clothing styles over time, and the importation of fabrics, cuts, and even people from foreign lands. All...

... of clothing escapes the control of the institutions and individuals who attempt to regulate it? As the historical starting point for most ecclesiastical and secular sumptuary legislation, the thirteenth century carries the burden of this question perhaps more than the overtly volatile sartorial...

... French cities, promulgated comparable sumptuary laws during the late Middle Ages. Marseille and Toulon ordered prostitutes to wear single-color garments, and Aix-en-Provence ordered them to be veiled. The penalty for disobedience usually included fines, confiscation, and the whip.25 These sumptuary...

... that are at once urban, domestic, agrarian, and political-­theological. This framework connects community to cosmos through its social and symbolic work. Hospitality embraces both theatrum and theatrum mundi: because hospitality as a social form involves sumptuary...

... subject fresh and relevant for a new generation of sinners. Williams’s oratory was aimed at a private audience, but neverthe- less has much in common with the public sermons preached at Paul’s Cross that also incorporated secular language in their invective against sumptuary excess. Thomas...

... ritualized structure of public behavior, not only in terms of daily costume (clothing identifying trade, sumptuary laws) and the gestures of polite social interaction, but also in the many parades, progresses, allegorical festivities, and requisite performances (church-going) structuring social, political...

... the second half of the sixteenth century begin to refer to payments for disegnatura, while individuals described as disegnatori occasionally appear in clothes accounts.57 Artisan entrepreneurs Sumptuary legislation also points to the role of artisans in promoting new fashions. Laws regularly...

... of it was regulated in Tudor England by sumptuary laws that forbade it to anyone under the “the Estate of a Duke Marquise Erle or their children.”30 While bibles were manufactured as books, they were often “elaborately bound,” as Alexandra Walsham writes of devotional books, functioning “as fashion...

... guides the audience to recognize the true object of his satire. The Promoters, who are introduced into the play when Allwit sets about summoning the gossips, are a foil to the willing cuckold. Tasked with enforcing sumptuary laws in the city, these officers supplement their earnings...

... inventory of women’s clothing prohibited by sumptuary laws.] Ghazzali. Al-­Ghazālī’s “Moderation in Belief”: Al-Iqtisād­ fī al-­i’tiqād. Translated and edited by Aladdin M. Yaqub. Chicago: University of Chi- cago Press, 2013. xxvii, 311 pp. $50.00. Guillaume, de Machaut. The Tale of the Alerion [Dit...

... wondryng that thow hast for my lofe, the mor thu plesyst me” (736). Her clothing is a symbol of her conversion and serves as one of the major thematic points throughout the Book . Margery's total disregard for sumptuary norms—represented by her wearing only white—becomes an integral part of her performed...

... little should be satisfied with that.” Jaster, “Of Bonnets and Breeches: Sumptuary Codes in Elizabethan Popular Literature,” Proceedings of the PMR Conference 16/17 (1992–93): 208. 52 Robert Greene, A Quip for an Upstart Courtier: Or, A Quaint Dispute Between Velvet Breeches and Cloth...

..., she will receive new fashions. As historical scholar- ship on early modern clothing has detailed, fashions were intimately tied with class identity, hence the rationale for sumptuary laws dictating what social degrees may wear which materials.38 The seaman s promise of new fashions for Betty...

..., south coast of Perú. Inca, ca. 1500 CE. Drawing by Dwight T. Wallace from “The Inca Compound at La Centinela,” Andean Past 5 (1998), fig. 10. By permission of Dwight T. Wallace. sumptuary goods. The mural program at La Centinela subsumed the space and its occupants within the larger pattern...

... of medicine. The sumptuous robe that is tarnished by the scatological beffa is emblematic of his elite position as a physician, one of the few professions (along with judges, notaries, and knights) that were allowed under Florentine sumptuary law to sport such rich, fur-­lined garments.35 When Bruno...

...” by promising the abolition of private property (“all the realm shall be in common” 466 Journal of Medieval and Early Modern Studies / 32.3 / 2002 [4.2.63]; “henceforward all things shall be in common” [4.7.16 the reformation of sumptuary laws (“I will apparel them all in one livery” [4.2.68–69...

... in Western Medieval Europe (Turnhout, Belg.: Brepols, – at –  Kim M. Phillips, “Masculinity and Medieval English Laws,” Gender and History no.   – at Sumptuary legislation in late medieval England usually focused on the dress of men.  Rupert H. Morris, Chester in Plantagenet...