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Journal Article
Old Habits Die Hard: Vestimentary Change in William Durandus's Rationale Divinorum Officiorum
Available to Purchase
Journal of Medieval and Early Modern Studies (2009) 39 (3): 545–570.
Published: 01 September 2009
...-length discussion of the use and hermeneutics of hurch vestments, however, reveals a consistent problem at the heart of ecclesiastical attire: how the changing “fashion” of actual garments worn by the clergy in this period no longer accorded with the traditional, often biblical prescriptions...
Journal Article
Journal of Medieval and Early Modern Studies (2009) 39 (3): 459–481.
Published: 01 September 2009
....8
Luxury objects and fashionable garments were valuable assets that set elite
families apart from the working poor.9 Over two centuries of great economic
and demographic expansion (ca. 1450 – ca. 1650), new patterns of produc-
tion, merchandizing, and consumption in the creation...
Journal Article
Fashion Networks: Consumer Demand and the Clothing Trade in Florence from the Mid-Sixteenth to Early Seventeenth Centuries
Available to Purchase
Journal of Medieval and Early Modern Studies (2009) 39 (3): 483–509.
Published: 01 September 2009
... they required for their work. Instead, customers were responsi-
ble for acquiring all the materials needed to make a garment, such as fabrics,
linings, buttons, and other haberdashery. This practice strongly contrasted
with the traditions of many other crafts, and it has been seen as a reflection...
Journal Article
“Worn in Venice and throughout Italy”: The Impossible Present in Cesare Vecellio's Costume Books
Available to Purchase
Journal of Medieval and Early Modern Studies (2009) 39 (3): 511–544.
Published: 01 September 2009
.../habitude (a costume and a custom,
a worn garment and a lived life) in Defert’s essay is the priest dressed in the
habit of his order. The gown identifies him to the outer eye, but it also incor-
porates into him the rules of the order to which he belongs, “incorporate”
taken in its literal sense...
Journal Article
Caught Looking: Under the Gaze of Inca Atawallpa, 15 November 1532
Available to Purchase
Journal of Medieval and Early Modern Studies (2014) 44 (2): 373–405.
Published: 01 May 2014
...,
the discursive energies of the veil’s transparency drew on the semantic capac-
ities of those thicker textiles: bedding, seating, floor-covering, sunshades.
All of those fabrics, as well as the woven garments were the basis of Inca
costume. Ruiz related that Atawallpa was wearing a “shirt without arms.”57...
Journal Article
Treasonous Textiles: Foreign Cloth and the Construction of Englishness
Available to Purchase
Journal of Medieval and Early Modern Studies (2002) 32 (3): 543–570.
Published: 01 September 2002
... his homeland, has
forsaken any signs that reveal his proper national affiliation by wearing the
various French garments. He has invited foreign fashion “hither,” thus
becoming a foreigner in his own land. The body of the English subject, cov-
ered over with “so much” that is French, not only...
Journal Article
Moralizing Apparel in Early Modern London: Popular Literature, Sermons, and Sartorial Display
Available to Purchase
Journal of Medieval and Early Modern Studies (2009) 39 (3): 571–595.
Published: 01 September 2009
... they are monstrous: I
would the Lord that when you goe to take measure of your wide
and flaunting garments, that then your soules would remember the
way to heaven which is said to be narrow. . . . And it is to be feared
that your great round-abouts, and wide circumferences...
Journal Article
Significant Gifts: Patterns of Exchange in Late Antique, Byzantine, and Early Islamic Diplomacy
Available to Purchase
Journal of Medieval and Early Modern Studies (2008) 38 (1): 79–101.
Published: 01 January 2008
... Arab horses with gilded
bridles and saddles, thirty horses with silvered saddles, thirty others with silk
saddle cloths, twenty mules with golden saddles, thirty camel loads of precious
carpets and rare furnishings, fifty garments in various colors. . . .”29...
Journal Article
Gifts for the Bride: Dowries, Diplomacy, and Marriage Politics in Muscovy
Available to Purchase
Journal of Medieval and Early Modern Studies (2008) 38 (1): 119–145.
Published: 01 January 2008
... during the ritualized cleansing bath on the morn-
ing of the second day of the wedding: another fur coat (shuba), a kaftan
(terlik), a light outer garment (opashen), a decorative collar (ozherel'e), and a
drinking goblet (chashnik) — all gifts that were also given to Tsarevich Peter...
Journal Article
Edward Pococke (1604–1691), Comparative Arabic-Hebrew Philology, and the Bible
Available to Purchase
Journal of Medieval and Early Modern Studies (2023) 53 (1): 117–147.
Published: 01 January 2023
... shrinketh his neck into his shell, or a man his head into his shirt, or garment, to hide it; and to turn in, as when one turneth in, or doubleth inward or outward the mouth of a Sack, or Bag.” This notion enabled Pococke to reconcile the different senses of the word in the Vulgate and the English Bible...
Journal Article
Ethnographer's Sketch, Sensational Engraving, Full-Length Portrait: Print Genres for Spanish America in Girolamo Benzoni, the De Brys, and Cesare Vecellio
Available to Purchase
Journal of Medieval and Early Modern Studies (2011) 41 (1): 137–171.
Published: 01 January 2011
...:
[They are] extremely beautiful garments, well woven and deco-
rated in different sections with the feathers of all kinds of birds,
skillfully and artfully interwoven, in such a variety of well
matched colors that for this reason and for their rarity, they can
be considered the most...
View articletitled, Ethnographer's Sketch, Sensational Engraving, Full-Length Portrait: Print Genres for Spanish America in Girolamo Benzoni, the De Brys, and Cesare Vecellio
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Journal Article
Reconceiving France: Form and Allegory in Alain Chartier's Quadrilogue invectif
Available to Purchase
Journal of Medieval and Early Modern Studies (2025) 55 (2): 271–294.
Published: 01 May 2025
... addition of the word pallium , a more formal and specifically religious synonym of the common mantel , imbues the garment with greater significance. Building on the existing cultural significance of the garment, Chartier develops Lady France's mantle into a visual allegory for the dire circumstances...
Journal Article
Isabella Whitney's Slips: Textile Labor, Gendered Authorship, and the Early Modern Miscellany
Available to Purchase
Journal of Medieval and Early Modern Studies (2015) 45 (3): 505–521.
Published: 01 September 2015
... ekphrastic tradition in which tapestries and embroidered gar-
dens are described so richly that the flowers seem alive. In Book III of The
Faerie Queene, a tapestry in the Castle Joyeous depicts Venus as she “with
her soft garment wipes away the gore” from Adonis, marking her doubled
cloth...
Journal Article
The Remains of the Jew: Imperial Christian Identity in the Late Ancient Holy Land
Available to Purchase
Journal of Medieval and Early Modern Studies (2003) 33 (1): 23–45.
Published: 01 January 2003
... to be both otherworldly—thus the glowing golden wand
and shining, gilded garments—and yet particularly Jewish: thus his abun-
dant beard and his long, white “priestly” hair give his specter a certain aura
of “the Old Law.”37
Like the inventio crucis, Lucianus’s tale is framed in a straightfor...
Journal Article
Sidney Montagu and the Sacramental Sign: Memorial and Sacred Objects in Post-Reformation England
Available to Purchase
Journal of Medieval and Early Modern Studies (2014) 44 (3): 549–583.
Published: 01 September 2014
... death
by a literal work of mourning, the addition of black ribbons crafted into
true-love knots. The object is so thoroughly endowed with meaning that
Montagu is moved to represent it in the imagery of the monument, and
again visually and textually in the manuscript. The garment’s true-love...
Journal Article
Survivors of Witch Trials and the Quest for Justice in Early Modern Germany
Available to Purchase
Journal of Medieval and Early Modern Studies (2020) 50 (2): 349–375.
Published: 01 May 2020
... mysterious 354 Journal of Medieval and Early Modern Studies / 50.2 / 2020 physical injuries on them. The key witness, however, was a young woman named Barbara, who had been arrested for stealing a garment. During her interrogation which involved torture she confessed that she was merely an executor...
Journal Article
“To Write of Him and Pardon Crave”: Negotiating Biblical Authority in Lanyer's Salve Deus Rex Judaeorum
Available to Purchase
Journal of Medieval and Early Modern Studies (2017) 47 (3): 545–560.
Published: 01 September 2017
... perish as a garment
olde, / Or as a vesture by the maker chang’d” (SD 58 – 59), a reference to Psalm
102:26 – 27 — she uses the translation “garment” and “vesture” common to the Geneva
and Bishops’ Bibles, rather than use the Sidneys’ translation, “clothes.” Compare The
Psalms...
Journal Article
Manliness and the Visual Semiotics of Bodily Fluids in Early Modern Culture
Available to Purchase
Journal of Medieval and Early Modern Studies (2009) 39 (2): 331–373.
Published: 01 May 2009
... of pissing boys instead only appear from the mid-
fifteenth century. Perhaps the Florentine sculptor (Niccolò Lamberti?) did
not quite understand the meaning of the ancient type. The putto follows
Lucretius’s description of pissing boys who “are lifting up their garments,”
but that gesture makes...
Journal Article
The Book and the Fetish: The Materiality of Prospero's Text
Available to Purchase
Journal of Medieval and Early Modern Studies (2002) 32 (3): 433–468.
Published: 01 September 2002
... much as a conceptual enigma that the play stages as a constitutive char-
acteristic of Prospero’s “magic.”
Instructing Miranda to help him divest himself of his enchanted
mantle, Prospero commands:
Lend thy hand
And pluck my magic garment from me...
Journal Article
Gender, the State, and Episcopal Authority: Hernando de Talavera and Richard Fox on Female Monastic Reform
Available to Purchase
Journal of Medieval and Early Modern Studies (2012) 42 (3): 615–634.
Published: 01 September 2012
... garments, sleep on soft beds, or be idle.33
In chapters 23 and 24, he addresses the other side of enclosure:
the entrance of visitors into the cloister. By outlining a plan for the two
points at which the secular world intersected with the convent — the door
and the visiting parlor — he...
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