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Journal Article
Translating Gender in Thirteenth-Century French Cross-Dressing Narratives:: La Vie de Sainte Euphrosine and Le Roman de Silence
Available to Purchase
Journal of Medieval and Early Modern Studies (2019) 49 (2): 233–264.
Published: 01 May 2019
... textual modes of translation connect with translation’s role in subject formation in medieval texts, focusing on two narratives about female cross-dressing, the Vie de Sainte Euphrosine and the Roman de Silence . Gender emerges in these texts through multiple intersecting modes of translation which...
View articletitled, Translating Gender in Thirteenth-Century French Cross-<span class="search-highlight">Dressing</span> Narratives:: La Vie de Sainte Euphrosine and Le Roman de Silence
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Journal Article
Journal of Medieval and Early Modern Studies (2009) 39 (3): 459–481.
Published: 01 September 2009
...Margaret F. Rosenthal In the past two decades, the multifaceted discipline of the history of medieval and early modern dress has benefited from reconceptualizations of the long, late Middle Ages and Renaissance as having undergone a revolution of consciousness, belief, and thought with global...
Journal Article
Fashion Networks: Consumer Demand and the Clothing Trade in Florence from the Mid-Sixteenth to Early Seventeenth Centuries
Available to Purchase
Journal of Medieval and Early Modern Studies (2009) 39 (3): 483–509.
Published: 01 September 2009
... consumers, artisans, and retailers. Such networks were fundamental to the way dress fashions developed and achieved wider diffusion during this period. Wealthy Florentines closely supervised the many different stages involved in the acquisition of clothing, often drawing on expertise they had accumulated...
Journal Article
“Worn in Venice and throughout Italy”: The Impossible Present in Cesare Vecellio's Costume Books
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Journal of Medieval and Early Modern Studies (2009) 39 (3): 511–544.
Published: 01 September 2009
...Ann Rosalind Jones In Cesare Vecellio's costume books, Degli Habiti antichi et moderni di diverse parti del mondo (1590) and Habiti antichi et moderni di tutto il Mondo (1598), the basic premise of the costume book—that it recorded styles of dress being worn at the moment of publication in Europe...
Journal Article
Fashions of Friendship in an Early Modern Illustrated Album Amicorum : British Library, MS Egerton 1191
Available to Purchase
Journal of Medieval and Early Modern Studies (2009) 39 (3): 619–641.
Published: 01 September 2009
... colored depictions of local fashions in dress and various regional customs witnessed while traveling. Along with these miniatures, the album combines sententious mottoes, heraldic shields, and personalized inscriptions from friends met during one's travels. The album owner and friends display their newly...
Journal Article
Old Habits Die Hard: Vestimentary Change in William Durandus's Rationale Divinorum Officiorum
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Journal of Medieval and Early Modern Studies (2009) 39 (3): 545–570.
Published: 01 September 2009
...
University of California, Riverside
Riverside, California
The need of dress is eminently a “higher” or spiritual need.
— Thorstein Veblen, The Theory of the Leisure Class (1899)
The paradox inherent in Thorstein Veblen’s statement about the “spiritual”
need...
Journal Article
Ethnographer's Sketch, Sensational Engraving, Full-Length Portrait: Print Genres for Spanish America in Girolamo Benzoni, the De Brys, and Cesare Vecellio
Available to Purchase
Journal of Medieval and Early Modern Studies (2011) 41 (1): 137–171.
Published: 01 January 2011
... their
language well.8 Another is his disinterested notation of the melodies the Tupi
sing and the festive dress they wear on ritual occasions. The dictionary pro-
vides exactly what a trader could put to use among these native people. Yet
Léry upends European assumptions by observing and describing without...
View articletitled, Ethnographer's Sketch, Sensational Engraving, Full-Length Portrait: Print Genres for Spanish America in Girolamo Benzoni, the De Brys, and Cesare Vecellio
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Journal Article
Foggie diverse di vestire de' Turchi : Turkish Costume Illustration and Cultural Translation
Available to Purchase
Journal of Medieval and Early Modern Studies (2007) 37 (1): 97–139.
Published: 01 January 2007
...
McGill University
Montreal, Canada
Venice was a repository for objects brought from Istanbul that attest to
diverse ways in which the two cities were imbricated. One intriguing exam-
ple is the Foggie diverse di vestire de’ Turchi [Different styles of dress...
Journal Article
Reconciling the Privilege of a Few with the Common Good: Sumptuary Laws in Medieval and Early Modern Europe
Available to Purchase
Journal of Medieval and Early Modern Studies (2009) 39 (3): 597–617.
Published: 01 September 2009
... the bodies of women.11 Women, for their part,
appreciated the opportunity not only to satisfy aesthetic sensibilities but also
to create social visibility, a difficult objective in that historical moment.12 In
some cases, the laws reveal traces of women’s defense of particular forms of
dress...
Journal Article
The Lady Appears: Materializations of “Woman” in Early Monastic Literature
Available to Purchase
Journal of Medieval and Early Modern Studies (2003) 33 (3): 387–402.
Published: 01 September 2003
....” Having said these
things, he stretched himself out and died. While dressing him the
worldly people found that he truly was a virgin. 3
The radical conrmation of the monk’s claim about himself—“a virgin in
my body”— made possible by the appearance of a female body only under...
Journal Article
Performing Feminine Sanctity in Late Medieval England: Parish Guilds, Saints' Plays, and the Second Nun's Tale
Available to Purchase
Journal of Medieval and Early Modern Studies (2002) 32 (2): 269–304.
Published: 01 May 2002
... practice and the rhetoric of ethics,
exemplarity, and imitation in virgin martyr legends; and the theatrical con-
ventions, like cross-dressing, that created and reflected tensions between the
narrative represented in performance and the social space in which it was
performed. The ethical demands...
Journal Article
Good King Henry and the Genealogy of Shakespeare's First History Plays
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Journal of Medieval and Early Modern Studies (2010) 40 (1): 37–63.
Published: 01 January 2010
... to Lydgate’s poem, the cult does not affiliate Henry with royal
saints like Edmund, but imagines him as something like the apotheosis of
his subjects: Good King Henry appears dressed in ordinary clothing, his
body uncannily echoing those of his devotees as he attends to their physical
and affective...
Journal Article
Is There a Harlot in This Text? Hagiography and the Grotesque
Available to Purchase
Journal of Medieval and Early Modern Studies (2003) 33 (3): 419–435.
Published: 01 September 2003
..., they are being instructed by Nonnos. Breaking the spell of this scene
of holy teaching, an actress and her retinue pass by in debauched splendor.
Dressed in nothing but gold, pearls, and jewels, Pelagia parades by “with her
head uncovered, with a scarf thrown around her shoulders in a shameless
fashion...
Journal Article
Cutting, Sticking, and Material Meaning in a Book of Passion Cycle Engravings
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Journal of Medieval and Early Modern Studies (2015) 45 (3): 543–556.
Published: 01 September 2015
... that the volume
may have been produced in a convent. Many convents had a long-established
tradition of decorating books, and all of them repaired and reproduced tex-
tiles, including vestments, dresses for statues of saints and devotional dolls,
and fabric flowers. If this book was convent-produced...
Journal Article
Scent of a Woman: Performing the Politics of Smell in Late Medieval and Early Modern England
Available to Purchase
Journal of Medieval and Early Modern Studies (2008) 38 (2): 229–252.
Published: 01 May 2008
... crowd at Middle Temple Hall.1 On this
anniversary, the Globe Company granted the audience an intimate view
of their “original practices” used in that night’s staging of the play: audi-
ence members were given access to the candlelit dressing room where actors
donned their costumes, applied makeup...
Journal Article
The Mystery of Walking
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Journal of Medieval and Early Modern Studies (2002) 32 (3): 571–580.
Published: 01 September 2002
... and asks for help in getting his boots
off:
Now, now, now, now. Pull off my bootes: harder, harder, so.
(Tragedie [F1], 4.6.166–69)
It’s not clear to whom he’s talking: the blind Gloucester? Edgar, dressed as
mad Tom? And in any production, the director will have to decide...
Journal Article
At the Limits of (Trans) Gender: Jesus, Mary, and the Angels in the Visionary Sermons of Juana de la Cruz (1481–1534)
Available to Purchase
Journal of Medieval and Early Modern Studies (2018) 48 (2): 261–300.
Published: 01 May 2018
... recounts her decision to ee her childhood home in male clothing in
order to reach the convent of Santa María de Cubas in safety and enter as a
novitiate. This sequence evokes various medieval hagiographic accounts of
cross- dressing female saints who usually resorted to male clothing in order...
Journal Article
Treasonous Textiles: Foreign Cloth and the Construction of Englishness
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Journal of Medieval and Early Modern Studies (2002) 32 (3): 543–570.
Published: 01 September 2002
... remain naked. England, then, represented
by the emblematic figure, is left bare, exposed, and vulnerable. It is only by
clothing himself in foreign attire that the Englishman can be dressed at all,
and it is the dressing in the clothes of “strangers” that puts English national
identity into crisis...
Journal Article
Moralizing Apparel in Early Modern London: Popular Literature, Sermons, and Sartorial Display
Available to Purchase
Journal of Medieval and Early Modern Studies (2009) 39 (3): 571–595.
Published: 01 September 2009
... attire. Indeed, like
many other sermonists of the period, and particularly those who preached
at St. Paul’s, Cannon’s argument against sartorial excesses identifies specific
details of modish dress in order to reach his urban audience. Moreover, the
humor with which Cannon makes his point betrays...
Journal Article
Manly Matters: The Theatricality and Sociability of Beards in Giordano Bruno's Candelaio and Sixteenth-Century Italy
Available to Purchase
Journal of Medieval and Early Modern Studies (2010) 40 (2): 325–346.
Published: 01 May 2010
..., possessed a wardrobe that
contained “three masks with beards for cross-dressing” [voltij tre barbi da
stravestir. no. tre].10 The inventory of Condulmer’s masks, as recorded duti-
fully by the notary after her death, does not distinguish one beard from
another, so it is impossible to tell from...
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