Thinking through Fashion: A Guide to Key Theorists, a volume edited by fashion scholars Agnès Rocamora and Anneke Smelik, is an important contribution to the establishment and canonization of the major theoretical perspectives that have arisen in the last thirty years in fashion studies. Rather than proposing innovative theoretical perspectives on the study of fashion, this book solidifies a preliminary canon for fashion theory and, more specifically, for those theorists—philosophers, sociologists, anthropologists, and psychoanalysts—who have been seminal in the study of the mechanisms of production and consumption of fashion or have been adopted by fashion scholars to unlock the practices of fashion. Here, fashion is not reduced to just the study of dress and the appearance of style in society but, as Rocamora and Smelik stress, is intended as a “material and symbolic system . . . made of things and signs, as...

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