... aesthetic a cinematic exploration of écriture féminine . While studying the film's experimental cinematography, its carefully thought-out costume and set design, and its deliberately naive acting style, we find particularly noteworthy the filmmakers' employment of color. Fruit 's chromatic experimentation...

... beautification. With a wardrobe that anticipated the ready-to-wear women’s fashions she went on to create, Fox costume designer Bonnie Cashin refashioned Tierney into an “all-American” war-time working woman. Copyright © 2018 Camera Obscura 2018 female stardom costuming Bonnie Cashin Hollywood World...

.... His description helps to explain the turn-of-the-century popularity of women, such as Isadora Duncan and Loie Fuller, who shocked the public with their translucent costumes and bare feet and entranced audi- ences with their movements. The woman that Wolff represents offers a vision of female...

... Review of Film and Video, Intersections: Gender, History and Culture in the Asian Context , and Film Quarterly . Wong’s dragon lady costume was condemned by Chinese nationalists and raved about in American publicity writings. The Art of Screen Passing: Anna May Wong’s Yellow Yellowface...

... attempts to offer two revisionary approaches to gender, one that reifies sexual difference as the basis for a critique of power, and another that works to transcend a sexual binary by suggesting the affinity of gender with costume. The film’s ambivalence about these revisionary projects, however...

... featured jigs, hornpipes, and minstrel show breakdowns and walk arounds. About the exact nature of the staging of lxion we can only speculate. Several reviews noted the absence of the sort of scenic effects upon which the extravaganza depended. As for the costumes, which later became...

... to the Revolution persuasively documents.7 In Coppola’s version of the queen’s history, which won the Academy Award for Best Costume Design,8 fashion often speaks for the char- acters as they themselves utter so little. Indeed, the sparseness of the film’s dialogue heightens the importance of the visual...

...). Spectacular stage sets, modern costumes, martial arts stunts, and a mecha- nized stage apparatus gave the so-called traditional opera — and mainstay of the magic lantern repertoire — a face-lift. On other occasions, when the rendition of her full name “Bai Baolian” was provided, the literal...

... to Deco’s complicated codes of femininity (in both her costuming and placement in the set by such Deco advocates as Adrian and Cedric Gibbons). I will also explore this topic in relation to the broad question of modernity and its particular address to the female subject as “New Woman.” Finally, I...

... “sexuality” via the unseen penis and female sexuality indexed by costume. This potential is most evident in a contemporary figuration in pop- ular culture that contests the traditional conditions and compromises of crossdressing in mass media. This figuration, which I term...

... effective sets in general. As for the main costumes, it was very much about the under- wear. The big panties and the filmy negligees had special value for me as a point of reference. And peach-­colored underthings were important. Other than that, I was trying not to make the costumes too...

... be seen to depict what Chris Straayer calls “a postmodern col- lapse of male-female and body-costume” in which “transsexual- ism” can be seen as “a kind of transvestism.”7 This shift of empha- sis from the sartorial to the somatic in images of transgender masculinities from either end...

..., the “series of roles” and “multiple bodies” cut across various forms and styles of representation, from fashion sketches and manikins to mirrors and anachronistic costumes. The reproduction is thus only one of many forms of embedded representation, though arguably the most important. However...

..., hybrid languages, and costumes, to move in a disorderly, decaying urban-industrial environment. Characters emerge out of this delirium, sometimes competing with their environment for the specta- tor’s attention. Anachronistic elements from the past are able to invade and disrupt...

... presence between the chaste heroine and the publicly dancing vamp.5 The neat distribution of virtue and vice between heroine and vamp (which also marked the moral binaries of East/West, tradition/modernity, wife/whore) is signaled through the names of the characters, the costuming, the spaces...

... a cursory glance at the two films (both by Feuillade) demonstrates the validity of these claims. Appropriating the skintight costume of the notorious criminal of literature and film, Fantômas, and the earlier French female justicière, Protéa, the figure of Musidora becomes the space for a multitude...

... in France from 1925 to 1975 and became a French citizen in 1937, is best remembered for spectacles of modern primitivism such as the costumed cabaret dances represented in films like the 1935 extravaganzaPrincess Tam Tam (dir. Edmond T. Gréville, France) and Zouzou (dir. Marc Allégret, France, 1934...

... Copyright © 1990 by The Johns Hopkins University Press 1989 300 double-signification containing both macho male “sexuality” via the unseen penis and female sexuality indexed by costume. This potential is most evident in a contemporary figuration in pop- ular...

... and interchangeable international costumes evoked fantasies of dressing her up, while suggesting that nego- tiating a fundamental change in gender roles can be as easy as a shift in outfits.42 Masquerading as a Full-Fledged American Girl As the teens drew to a close, female screen types began shift...